On June 14, 2023, I was swiping through local Kelowna news when a headline from KelownaNow caught my attention - A new authentic Mexican restaurant on the way for Kelowna's Bernard Avenue.
If you've read my review for El Taquero, you'll know I've got a favourite taco spot in El Taquero Tacos & Tequila. You can get to that review right HERE. So, this headline captured my attention like a jealous girlfriend. My emotions changed to stupefied wonder when I saw a video in the article, and the thumbnail pic for the video is Izzy of El Taquero! WTH is going on? Molly's Cafe, formerly at 520 Bernard Ave, had been sold to Izzy and Marnie. So, this new Mexican restaurant on Bernard expands the El Taquero brand. This new restaurant will be called Chilango by El Taquero, and this is my restaurant review of this unique establishment.
Now, considering that El Taquero is located only a 5–10-minute walk from Chilango, the question of what will be on the menu and how it will be different quickly comes to mind. The menu at El Taquero centers around the homestyle food Izzy grew up with—very comforting and showcasing homestyle Mexican cuisine. Chilango is where Izzy can let his imagination and creativity run wild without fear of his mother's reprisal.
Now, I've been lucky enough to have been able to watch the transformation of the space to Chilango. Marnie gave me a tour shortly after I posted my review of El Taquero. And the first thing she showed me would be the future location of their salsa bar. YES, THEY ARE BRINGING BACK THEIR SALSA BAR!!!!🤤 I also surprised Marnie with my keen attention to detail. I saw a box, understood what was in it and what it was for and asked, "What kind of flights are you planning on serving?". Ya, they will be offering flights of margaritas!
Going back to that video on KelownaNow, Izzy boldly stated that he was aiming for the end of July to open. Now, I've worked in hospitality for over 20 years and couldn't help but poke fun at this with Marnie. But seeing the joy and excitement in her eyes at this new venture, I could completely understand Izzy's bold statement…. even if it was super optimistic. I attended the weekend of their soft opening.
Upon entry, you are greeted by a bright colour palette that lets you know you are experiencing a taste of Mexico. A bar is the first thing that you see. One that is much larger than the one at El Taquero, but it has a different feel. Where the bar at El Taquero evoked a more classic Mexican feeling, this one at Chilango is like the younger brother that's come back after studying abroad and showing a more fusion feel. Lovely plush highchairs are positioned around the bar for guests to sit and eat. I sensed that lessons learned at El Taquero inspired many small details at Chilango, like the bar seat outlets with USB plug-ins to charge phones.
Looking past the bar, it's easy to miss the taco bar/server area just behind. This space's black, gold, and pastel blue tile frames the bar beautifully, making it a central visual point upon entry. It isn't until you fully enter that you take note of the taco bar, where you can also sit and watch the magic. Then, as you look further into the restaurant, there is a banquette along part of one long wall.
My party chose the high-top tables along the large window that looks out onto Bernard St and their patio. The chairs at these tables were a luxurious sandy-tan suede. When our server came over to take our drink orders, I had to ask: Are the margarita flights available? Yes, I know that this is a soft opening and may not be available, especially since the server was unsure what I was asking about. I watched our server go over to the bar where Marnie was, and I could tell from her reaction the exact moment the question was given to her. She immediately looks at me, and I sit there with my most charming and innocent ear-to-ear grin. She did make it for me and personally brought it over to me. Now it's her turn to poke fun at me. She was not surprised that I had remembered this and asked for it and that I was the first order made at Chilango.
So, my drink for my inaugural meal at Chilango is their margarita flight. Three smaller servings of margarita consisting of coconut, guava, and habanero melon margarita. As I was tasting my way through these, I was mesmerized. The attention to detail and care for the guest experience are evident. This flight alone gave me a great insight into the menu. The coconut margarita has a lovely, sweet, tropical vibe. The guava margarita came in almost at the opposite end of the sweet spectrum to the coconut. It possessed some tart undertones and subdued sweetness. And finally, for me, the habanero melon stole the show with its "sugar and spice," making it ever so lovely. The beautifully crafted change in flavours and sweetness showed incredible care for the taste and guest enjoyment. Something I instinctually knew would be incorporated into the menu.
We had to order appetizers of chips and pico for the table solely as an excuse to enjoy the salsa bar. Four house-made salsas of varying degrees of heat loaded with 100% flavour. If you look closely at the menu, they have a list of all their salsas that they rotate through for the bar. And then, at the end of the bar is their house pickled vegetables. 🤤 Seeing this coming back made me think that this is Marnie and Izzy's way of throwing up the middle finger at COVID (that was why they had to stop offering it).
My niece and her boyfriend came with us for this meal, primarily so I could take pics of more food from the menu.
My niece chose the Torta Campesina - a crispy fried chicken sandwich with jicama, cucumber, red cabbage slaw, and sweet chipotle glaze on a fresh talera roll accompanied by a house salad. This is Izzy's Mexican-styled version of a Banh-Mi.
Her boyfriend ordered the Pollo Con Mole - a quarter confit chicken with a smoked chile & squash mole sauce with epazote rice - and an add-on of refried beans. It is a beautiful presentation for a dish that crosses Mexican with French. And holey-moley this mole sauce. It's lovingly homemade and has a rich, decadent, earthy flavour that is just amazing.
My wife got the Trompito De Pastor - 2 skewers of Adobo marinated pork, grilled onions, & pineapple with soft corn tortillas, avocado salsa, and ensalada de esquites (famous Mexican snack/salad of corn mixed with creamy mayonnaise, crumbled cotija cheese or queso fresco, lime juice and chilli powder). The pork in this dish is so freakin tender that you can cut it with just a gaze. And then the sweet notes from the pineapple and grilled onion elevate this to divine deliciousness.
All around, I can honestly say I'm blown away with the flavours Izzy has crafted in this menu. And this is before I even try my dish, Plancha Arrachera - grilled medium steak, cherry tomato pico, soft corn tortillas, avocado salsa, and a little salad of red cabbage and arugula. The caramelized onion topping to the steak gave a lovely hint of sweetness. With the addition of the peppery arugula and crunchy red cabbage, you now have a great crunch and contrasting pepper element to this meal.
Overall, I must say……..hang on, I almost forgot to check out the washrooms! 🤦🏾♂️ Wallpaper with cacti over geometric shapes in the background. The restrooms are large and spacious. The colour palette is carried into here but in a very minimal manner - just the mirror frame and the door give the bright pop of colour in this clean washroom.
As I was about to say…overall, Izzy has swung for the fences with his creativity and inspiration. His imagination allowed more freedom, and I was impressed by his fusion inspiration for some of the plates. Now, with El Taquero, I have my core favourites that I stick to. However, upon my next visit to Chilango, I will explore more of this menu out of sheer curiosity to experience his other creations. The balance of flavours, imaginative plating, and passionately crafted dishes I encountered with these four orders has piqued my interest for the rest of the menu. And that salsa bar may also be a minor part of my return. Next summer, I look forward to sitting on their patio eating tacos with a Mexican beer and a medley of salsas from their bar; that will be my little slice of heaven. I hope to see you there.
Cheers 🥂
-BC Wine Nerd
Website: No website up at the time of writing this review
Address: 520 Bernard Ave
Phone #: 778-478-0200
Dietaries: The menu offers Gluten Free, Vegetarian, and Vegan
Wine by the Glass Menu: I forgot to check. Too excited for the margarita flight
Menu $: 🍷🍷🍷
